Homer Harbor



Dauntless Quest

Why seek to scale Mount Everest,
             Queen of the air?
Why strive to crown that cruel crest
             And deathward dare?
Said Mallory of dauntless quest:
             "Becaue it's there."

Why yearn with passion and with pain
             To storm the sky?
Why suffer, - sullen goals to gain,
             And fear defy?
"'Tis not for glory or for gain
             We darkly die."

Why join the reckless, roving crew
             Of trail and tent?
Why grimly take the roads of rue,
             To doom hell-bent?
Columbus, Cook and Cabot knew,
             And yet they went."

Why bid the wooly world goodbye
             To follow far,
Adventures under evil sky
             And sullen star?
Let men like Mallory reply:
             "Because they are."

                      - Robert Service

Homer,  “a quaint little drinking town with a fishing problem,” and the “cosmic hamlet by the sea.”  We are departing this special place as we begin our travels home. This last week in Homer has been bitter sweet as we do things for the last time, and prepare to see more of this amazing state.

We asked the boys what they would like to the last week in Homer. We told them they could each do one thing that they think is special to Homer.  For Colton this was easy;  he wanted to go Halibut fishing one more time. So he and Tim set out aboard the BORN FREE for a third and final Halibut fish. This was the best trip yet.  They had similar luck as their previous trips, catching many fish before deciding to keep any.  They were fishing in 240 feet of water using a 3lb. lead weight to hold their bait on the bottom, so each time they hauled up a fish or to check their bait, they got a pretty good work-out.  Colton thinks this ought to count as his pre-season upper body regime for football. (He’s already thinking football!).  In the end, they ended up with four nice 15# to 20# halibut that allowed us to ship another 25# of halibut fillets home and one last halibut dinner cooked on the soapstone.

Colton realing one in






Good Catch!

 

Now, since “talent needs a break every now and then” (a phase we heard and thought was a fitting description for Ethan), Ethan decided that instead of halibut fishing he really wanted to go tide-pooling one more time.  Anna thought this was splendid and the two of them had an amazing beach walk at low tide.  They also were able to squeeze in one more treat at their favorite beach bakery, Two Sisters.



Beached Jellyfish





E on the beach

 

E spotting a burrow anemone

 We also had a chance to really experience Alaskan "Combat Fishing". The reds (sockeye) were running on the Kenai river. We had to check it out. We couldn' tbeleive how everyone was really fishing elbow to elbow. Hooks flying everywhere. We had to wait an hour to just even get a spot. The daily limit is three, so once someone caught their limit they would usually leave and open up a spot. I still can't believe we let the boys fish in this environment, with fly rods. They did exceptionally well. No one got a hook or gave a hook which was a miracel in itself.

Combat fishing for Reds on the Kenai, waiting for a spot.

Anna had all the luck. She played 4 fish and finally landed one. With red fishing, you are trying to legally snag them in their mouths. It is easy to foul hook them as there as so many, but to be legal, the hook has to land in their mouth. They are no longer feeding as they come up river to spawn, so it is not at all like the fishing we ar eused to. The best part is, if you are lucky enough to get one, they put up a great fight. One oldtimer on the river said "it's a good things reds are small - if they were the size of kings we'd never land one". Our observations were that for every 5 fish played, one is actually landed. Colton had a chance to play one all the way up to the net, but he got off at the last minute. Tim and Ethan didn't get a red, but Tim did pick up a Dolly!



Anna's Sockeye



Anna also did something crazy; she went bear viewing.  Now for those of you know her  loathing for flights, especially in small aircraft, you may wonder what she was thinking. But she really wanted the experience of seeing the bears.  So, after being lucky enough to win a silent auction bid for flight & viewing, she went down to the hanger and boarded a Cessna 206- a 6 passenger bush plane.

Grizzlies feasting on a whale carcass- Mount Augustine in the background



Curious Bear


 I was lucky enough to ride shotgun (in the co-pilot seat) with awesome pilot and guide, Jack. I learned something about myself.  I actually LOVE flying in a small aircraft. It was an amazing experience. I skipped lunch and I had my ziplock bag ready in anticipation of getting airsickness, but no – not even a rumble!  I LOVED IT! I especially loved the sharp bank turns when the views really opened up.  We flew over to Katmai National Park and landed on a beach ( yes- a beach) where a small whale had recently washed up on shore. A bunch of grizzlies were feasting on this delicacy. Much to my amazement, the guides did not have guns, only bear flares, and they ended up walking us up about 50 yards from all the activity.  

The planes and the beach we landed and took off from



It was unreal how the bears kind of looked at us and were curious, but mostly kept to themselves.  I say ‘mostly’ as at one point one bear did venture up to the grass where we were watching and came running towards the group! But our excellent guide, Jack, shooed him away and that was that.  My pulse rate did go up and my mouth dried up as the ‘flight’ reflex of ‘fight or flight’ was gearing up, but luckily I didn’t have to actually have to engage it.  Whew!!!  Not sure I will ever do something like that again, but I am so glad I did it”.

Big Bear!

Mount Augustine Smoking!



Bears and the whale carcass

“

“As we were walking back to the plane, I found the most amazing beach treasure; a whale vertebrae! It was very smelly, but so cool, I just had to have it. Luckily the pilots allowed it on the plane.  It even has bear teeth marks in it where bears had obviously been chewing on it. It will be on display in my garden this fall!  Truly, an Alaskan souvenir!”

Since it was an absolutely gorgeous day, the pilots decided to give us a glacier flight seeing ride on the way back.  We flew over Douglas Peak and Glacier which was spectacular, especially “riding shotgun” on a small plane! So much untouched wilderness.  I am not sure if anyone actually lives on this incredibly expansive National Park.  It was massive and wild- a truly remarkable and cherished sight. It is hard to say what was better;  the bear viewing or the flight seeing. I felt as though I had spent the day inside a National Geographic center fold. It was an  unforgettable day! 

Flying over Douglas Glacier at Katmai National Park- Amazing



We spent most of the last few days packing up and shipping things home (like the whale vertebrae) and selling our bikes, which we did easily via Craig’s list. By Sunday morning we were ready for the last leg of our trip.  It was hard to say farewell to Tim and Ruby, as they were the best hosts anyone could ever ask for.  If you are ever lucky enough to spend some time in Homer, be sure to check out the Coho House or the Rock Garden Inn, both run and owned by Tim and Ruby Haigh, for accommodations that can’t be beat. Thank-you Tim and Ruby for everything; the nets and swings for the boys, the soapstone, sharing your gardens with us and of course your friendship.  We hope to see you in Vermont next fall!

Now, on to the next leg of our trip. We are heading over to Portage  and Byron Glaciers on our way to Whittier where we will board the Kennecot ( Alaska Marine Highway Ferry) and make our way over to Juneau as we start to discover the Inside Passage and make our way back to Vermont.