Homer Harbor



Dauntless Quest

Why seek to scale Mount Everest,
             Queen of the air?
Why strive to crown that cruel crest
             And deathward dare?
Said Mallory of dauntless quest:
             "Becaue it's there."

Why yearn with passion and with pain
             To storm the sky?
Why suffer, - sullen goals to gain,
             And fear defy?
"'Tis not for glory or for gain
             We darkly die."

Why join the reckless, roving crew
             Of trail and tent?
Why grimly take the roads of rue,
             To doom hell-bent?
Columbus, Cook and Cabot knew,
             And yet they went."

Why bid the wooly world goodbye
             To follow far,
Adventures under evil sky
             And sullen star?
Let men like Mallory reply:
             "Because they are."

                      - Robert Service

Homer,  “a quaint little drinking town with a fishing problem,” and the “cosmic hamlet by the sea.”  We are departing this special place as we begin our travels home. This last week in Homer has been bitter sweet as we do things for the last time, and prepare to see more of this amazing state.

We asked the boys what they would like to the last week in Homer. We told them they could each do one thing that they think is special to Homer.  For Colton this was easy;  he wanted to go Halibut fishing one more time. So he and Tim set out aboard the BORN FREE for a third and final Halibut fish. This was the best trip yet.  They had similar luck as their previous trips, catching many fish before deciding to keep any.  They were fishing in 240 feet of water using a 3lb. lead weight to hold their bait on the bottom, so each time they hauled up a fish or to check their bait, they got a pretty good work-out.  Colton thinks this ought to count as his pre-season upper body regime for football. (He’s already thinking football!).  In the end, they ended up with four nice 15# to 20# halibut that allowed us to ship another 25# of halibut fillets home and one last halibut dinner cooked on the soapstone.

Colton realing one in






Good Catch!

 

Now, since “talent needs a break every now and then” (a phase we heard and thought was a fitting description for Ethan), Ethan decided that instead of halibut fishing he really wanted to go tide-pooling one more time.  Anna thought this was splendid and the two of them had an amazing beach walk at low tide.  They also were able to squeeze in one more treat at their favorite beach bakery, Two Sisters.



Beached Jellyfish





E on the beach

 

E spotting a burrow anemone

 We also had a chance to really experience Alaskan "Combat Fishing". The reds (sockeye) were running on the Kenai river. We had to check it out. We couldn' tbeleive how everyone was really fishing elbow to elbow. Hooks flying everywhere. We had to wait an hour to just even get a spot. The daily limit is three, so once someone caught their limit they would usually leave and open up a spot. I still can't believe we let the boys fish in this environment, with fly rods. They did exceptionally well. No one got a hook or gave a hook which was a miracel in itself.

Combat fishing for Reds on the Kenai, waiting for a spot.

Anna had all the luck. She played 4 fish and finally landed one. With red fishing, you are trying to legally snag them in their mouths. It is easy to foul hook them as there as so many, but to be legal, the hook has to land in their mouth. They are no longer feeding as they come up river to spawn, so it is not at all like the fishing we ar eused to. The best part is, if you are lucky enough to get one, they put up a great fight. One oldtimer on the river said "it's a good things reds are small - if they were the size of kings we'd never land one". Our observations were that for every 5 fish played, one is actually landed. Colton had a chance to play one all the way up to the net, but he got off at the last minute. Tim and Ethan didn't get a red, but Tim did pick up a Dolly!



Anna's Sockeye



Anna also did something crazy; she went bear viewing.  Now for those of you know her  loathing for flights, especially in small aircraft, you may wonder what she was thinking. But she really wanted the experience of seeing the bears.  So, after being lucky enough to win a silent auction bid for flight & viewing, she went down to the hanger and boarded a Cessna 206- a 6 passenger bush plane.

Grizzlies feasting on a whale carcass- Mount Augustine in the background



Curious Bear


 I was lucky enough to ride shotgun (in the co-pilot seat) with awesome pilot and guide, Jack. I learned something about myself.  I actually LOVE flying in a small aircraft. It was an amazing experience. I skipped lunch and I had my ziplock bag ready in anticipation of getting airsickness, but no – not even a rumble!  I LOVED IT! I especially loved the sharp bank turns when the views really opened up.  We flew over to Katmai National Park and landed on a beach ( yes- a beach) where a small whale had recently washed up on shore. A bunch of grizzlies were feasting on this delicacy. Much to my amazement, the guides did not have guns, only bear flares, and they ended up walking us up about 50 yards from all the activity.  

The planes and the beach we landed and took off from



It was unreal how the bears kind of looked at us and were curious, but mostly kept to themselves.  I say ‘mostly’ as at one point one bear did venture up to the grass where we were watching and came running towards the group! But our excellent guide, Jack, shooed him away and that was that.  My pulse rate did go up and my mouth dried up as the ‘flight’ reflex of ‘fight or flight’ was gearing up, but luckily I didn’t have to actually have to engage it.  Whew!!!  Not sure I will ever do something like that again, but I am so glad I did it”.

Big Bear!

Mount Augustine Smoking!



Bears and the whale carcass

“

“As we were walking back to the plane, I found the most amazing beach treasure; a whale vertebrae! It was very smelly, but so cool, I just had to have it. Luckily the pilots allowed it on the plane.  It even has bear teeth marks in it where bears had obviously been chewing on it. It will be on display in my garden this fall!  Truly, an Alaskan souvenir!”

Since it was an absolutely gorgeous day, the pilots decided to give us a glacier flight seeing ride on the way back.  We flew over Douglas Peak and Glacier which was spectacular, especially “riding shotgun” on a small plane! So much untouched wilderness.  I am not sure if anyone actually lives on this incredibly expansive National Park.  It was massive and wild- a truly remarkable and cherished sight. It is hard to say what was better;  the bear viewing or the flight seeing. I felt as though I had spent the day inside a National Geographic center fold. It was an  unforgettable day! 

Flying over Douglas Glacier at Katmai National Park- Amazing



We spent most of the last few days packing up and shipping things home (like the whale vertebrae) and selling our bikes, which we did easily via Craig’s list. By Sunday morning we were ready for the last leg of our trip.  It was hard to say farewell to Tim and Ruby, as they were the best hosts anyone could ever ask for.  If you are ever lucky enough to spend some time in Homer, be sure to check out the Coho House or the Rock Garden Inn, both run and owned by Tim and Ruby Haigh, for accommodations that can’t be beat. Thank-you Tim and Ruby for everything; the nets and swings for the boys, the soapstone, sharing your gardens with us and of course your friendship.  We hope to see you in Vermont next fall!

Now, on to the next leg of our trip. We are heading over to Portage  and Byron Glaciers on our way to Whittier where we will board the Kennecot ( Alaska Marine Highway Ferry) and make our way over to Juneau as we start to discover the Inside Passage and make our way back to Vermont.



Linger Longer

Take It Easy

When I was boxing in the ring
In 'Frisco back in ninety-seven,
I used to make five bucks a fling
To give as good as I was given.
But when I felt too fighting gay,
And tried to be a dinger-donger,
My second, Mike Muldoon, would say:
"Go easy, kid; you'll stay the longer."

When I was on the Yukon trail
The boys would warn, when things were bleakest,
The weakest link's the one to fail -
Said I: "by Gosh! I won't be weakest."
So I would strain with might and main,
Striving to prove I was the stronger,
Till Sourdough Sam would snap: "Goddam!
Go easy, son; you'll last the longer."

So all you lads of eighty odd
Take my advice- you'll never rue it:
Be quite prepared to meet your God,
But don't stampede yourselves to do it.
Just cultivate a sober gait;
Don't emulate the lively conger;
No need to race, slow down the pace,
Go easy, Pals - you'll linger longer.
                                      -  Robert Service


We have so enjoyed slowing down our pace and lingering in Alaska.  It truely is a gift to be able to not stampede forth with the business of everyday work and responsibilites. This is our last week in Homer.  It is bittersweet to think about leaving.  So many wonderful memories and new friends which we will have to say goodbye to, but still so much more to look forward to.  We feel like we have seen so much of Alaska, and yet we still have the Inside Passage to come!

Well - for an update on this week....yet again, it's been great.  We have really enjoyed all the company, who also were able to slow the pace and enjoy the intimate relationship with nature that abounds here in Homer. Luckily, after 3 days of cold and rainy weather things finally started to improve. It's funny how one cloudy, rainy afternoon we were all hanging out on the Spit and we decided to go in to the Salty Dawg for a beer.  By the time we came out , the sun was shining. Colton and Ethan now are firm believers that a beer at the Dawg can change the weather, or maybe that is , it can change your attitide about the weather?  Ah, the benefits of lingering!  Anyhow, we ended up having a lot of fun in the sun.



The mighty beach walkers



First we capitalized on the warm weather by heading down to our favorite beach, Diamond Beach. The boys and Carolyn had fun panning for gold in the creek, and they all agree that Carolyn had a gold flake, but then Colton went to check it and that was the last that it was seen. Oh well. While the Carolyn & kids panned (with Mark & Tim supervising), Anna, Gail, Kate and Pete did the beach hike up to Bishops Beach. It was great for the first 6 miles, but then after having to back track a bit and feet getting sore from mud boots, they were all glad to catch the short cut and get picked up by Tim and the boys who were just on their way home.



The eagles were really chattering it up on the beach.

 Mark and Carolyn also decided to do the hike, but they left much later, which meant the tide was much higher.  The part that Anna had to back-track (the tide was still not out far enough to get across with out swimming), Carolyn decided to take. Bad choice. She didn't quite swim, but was wet almost to her butt.  Her boots took 2 days to dry out! All in all it was a beautiful evening to be beach walking. The eagles were out in full force but the tidal life was minimal.  We did however see 2 jellyfish on the beach and we also saw half (yes that's right, HALF) of a seal. The other half looked like it had been bitten off by a shark or whale. It smelled pretty bad, but Anna was relieved to eventually realize that the smell was from a dead animal, and not her father- in-law, whom she was walking behind.

One more juveneille Bald Eagle



Pete and Gail with the Katchemak Range and Bay.
Lingering.

We also finally had a chance to go check out the town of Kenai.  It is at the mouth of the Kenia River and we were interested to go and check out the dipnetting season. There wasn't much of a 'city' to see, but we did enjoy watching the dip-netting action.

Residents of Alaska are allowed to 'dipnet' for Sockeye Salmon. A dipnet is a 5 feet diameter net attached to a 20' long pole.  They are allowed 25 salmon for the "head of household" plus 10 more for each additional family member.  You know the season has opened when you start seeing huge nets riding on tops of all the Subarus in town.  The beach at the mouth of the Kenai River turns into a "tent city"  with everyone in the family participating.  Mom and/or Dad are out to their chest in waders in the 38-40 degree water with the net and the kids are on the beach playing or whacking the fish with a club as they are thrown from net.  I guess when a family of 4 can put up 150-200# of prepared salmon in a day, it makes for a great family vacation while filling the freezer for winter.  We're told that many Alaskan families plan their summer vacation around the dipnetting season and clean, package, and/or can (jar) their fish right on the beach.

A perfect fish cleaning station!



Dipnetters on the Kenai



Got one!

Beautiful small old Russian church



2 Otters hamming it up.



Puffin!



The next day Pete, Gail, Mark and Carolyn took a glacier viewing flight seeing trip with the same pilot, Charlie, who took the boys on the fly-out fishing trip. They flew right over the boat that Anna, Tim, Kate and the boys were on as they were heading across the bay to Seldovia for the day. We also saw a tonne of otters on the trip not to mention a few puffins. The boat trip across was beautiful as it was another glorius blue sky day.  It included yet another tour of Gull Island, as well as a cruise through Eldridge Passage, which passess by 3 islands, and we went by Elephant Rock. It's amazing; when you view the rock from one direction the trunk is down, then a moment later, the trunk is up. How does it do that? 

Elephant rock with it's trunk down

Elephant rock with it's trunk up!





Pete, Gail, Mark and Carolyn flying over Gull Island





Beautiful Blue Poppies

Seldovia is a quaint little fishing villiage with a historic boardwalk, a few little restaurants and not much else. We did enjoy the walk around the boardwalk.

Kate enjoying the boat ride over to Seldovia

Treasures on the boardwalk

Pete, Gail, Mark and Carolyn took a water taxi over to meet us in Seldovia after their glacier flight seeing tour, but unfortunatley their time was cut short as the water taxi forgot to call the road taxi and they waited for over an hour for a pick up from a deserted beach. They too finally made it into the small town of Seldovia, and before you knew it, it was time to go back accross the bay. It was a good ride to rest on, and the boat captain had a little rest while Ethan took the helm and guided us back to the spit.

Ethan sitting up front with the Captain

I know, 2 entire days with no fishing! Yikes! Tim was starting to shake,  so the following day much of the clan went fishing back on the Anchor River for Pink Salmon and Dolly Varden.  Kate and Carolyn stayed in town to explore Homer and Anna was off to Anchorage for a dinner program.

On Friday, it was already time for Pete, Gail and Kate to head back to Vermont.  Everyone drove up to Anchorage on another beautiful day. We did have time to hike part of Flat Top Mountain.  It was amazing that you could see Denali (Mount McKinnley) from Anchorage. That means we have seen this same mountain from Anchorage, Faribanks and up close in the National Park. That is an area that spans over 400 miles.  That is one big, impressive mountain!  We also had a chance to check out the Alaska Aviation Hertitage Museum.  It is located right near the take off points for all the float and bush planes.  Even more impressive than the museum was seeing hundreds of planes docked along a pond, and hundreds more in the field ready to go to work.




See Denali (Mount McKinnley) in the background?


As we begin to pack up and ready ourselves for the next leg of our journey we are noticing changes all around us. The lupine are now past their prime, the fireweed is starting to come out, and the days are getting shorter. Only 18 hours of sunlight this week. We even have seen the moon - twice! This is the first time in over three months that it has been dark enough to see the moon. Still no stars. We do look forward to the clear, dark nights of Vermont when the sky is lit up with constellations and moon glow.  Until then, we will continue to "cultivate our sober gait" and linger just a little bit longer.



Life of My Desire

Excerpt from "Sentimental Shark", by Robert Service

Give me a cabin in the woods
Where not a human soul intrudes;
Where I can sit beside a stream
Beneath a balsam bough and deam,
And every morning see arise
The sun like bird of paradise;
Then go down to the creek and fish
A speckled trout for breakfast dish,
And fry it in an ember fire -
Ah! there's the life of my desire.
It has been another desirable week in Homer, Alaksa.

Colton wading in a glacier fed lake - brrrrr!

Colton's fire he built to warm up after
swimming with the icebergs.

On Monday , Colton started his HOWL (Homer Outdoor Wilderness Leadership) camp and had a great time.  In his words "that was the best camp I ever went to".  For the first three days they did day trips around Homer - hiking, tracking, fire starting, ect. with a heavy dose of games each day.  The week culminated on Thurs. & Fri. when they put all their skills to work across the bay on his first ever over-night back pack trip.  His pack ended up weighing 29 pounds BEFORE he had to add on his portion of the tent and food.  He didn't think it was too bad, but definately more work than doing the hike without a pack.  They slept on the beach of Grewingk Glacier Lake and stayed up until 1:30 AM - or so we are told.  We believe him, especially as he described a beautiful scene of a mamma moose and her two babes coming up to take a drink at the waters edge just as the sun was beginning to set.  Sounds lovely- but if he was up late enough to see the sun set - he was up late!  Colton learned a tonne of new games that he can't wait to share with his buddies and his gym teacher back home.

On Monday we also enjoyed the local 4th of July parade.  Since it doesn't get dark enough for fireworks, it seems that EVERYONE in the community either particiaptes in, or watches the parade!



4th of July parade - patriotic poodles make for colorful eagle poop! 



Common theme in Alaka . Anyone disagree?




View from the kayak.



Paddling around Elephant Rock. At high tide you can
paddle right through the hole.

 Anna finally made it out for a guided kayak trip across the bay with True North Kayak Adventures (http://www.truenorthkayak.com/) .
It was a half day trip, starting and ending on Yukon Island.  It was one of those perfect blue sky, sunny days and she just couldn't pass up the chance to go.  It was amazing; the serene water, the sunshine, the native history lesson the guide provided, as well as tonnes of intertidal sea life; it just happened to be low tide when she was out paddling.

Larry netting one of his fish that Ethan reeled in, because
Larry has "a bad back," or so he told Ethan.

THE PINKS ARE IN! That's right - the Pink Salmon - or "humpies",  have started to come up the Anchor River to spawn.  A few Dolly Varden are also making their way. We've had a lot of fun catching these. We have really enjoyed the low number of people on the river bank. Now it is really just mostly the more serious fishermen; all who have been very nice. We especially took to Larry, who was the first fisherman to ask if we minded if he fished just upstream of us. He loved having Ethan near by so Ethan could reel in all of his bites - which were plenty.  We watched and learned as he gave Ethan pointers on drag, line and flies.  He also gave Ethan some flies as he really wanted Ethan to catch one on his own. What a nice man.

Ethan netting Anna's first Salmon on a fly rod

Tim and the catch of the day



Mimi, Papa and the boys at the harbor as we send Cotlon off on his HOWL backpack








Mimi and Papa have made it to Alaska.  After a very LONG night (early morning, really) they made it into Homer on Thursday.  After 24 hours of travelling and only 5 hours sleep, they came just in time to see Colton off on his backpacking trip.  We told them they could rest once they get home to Vermont, so we packed them up and went to the Anchor River again. We caught a few more Pinks and came home for a delicious dinner.  As we were cooking our pinks on the soapstone, our wonderful hosts let us know that Pinks are really good for only dogfood!  Alaskan's sure are "Salmon snobs." Especially those from Kodiak! We really enjoyed eating the pinks. They taste more like the farm salmon we are used to from the grocery store as they do not have the full flavor that the kings have, but definately still very good eating; especially fresh from the river onto the open fire!  We did learn that they are not good to freeze,  as they get mushy when they are defrosted. So, sorry to our New England friends; you will have to take our word that they were good eating.  Mmmm...a life of desire. Now we have to stop catching more than we can eat in a day or two.

A jelly fish that Ethan spotted at the harbor

===============================================

Heading out

As a special treat for Papa, we had booked a "boys only" fly-out fishing trip (http://www.homerflyoutadventures.com/ ) and Saturday was the big day.  It was a once in a life time opportunity; Papa had to wait until his 60's to do it, Tim had to wait until his 40's and Colton and Ethan had to wait 2 weeks!!  Lucky boys. We sent them off on a Stationairre 6 float plane which left from Beluga lake in Homer and they flew over to McCarthy Fiord and McCarthy Lagoon, to fish for Dolly Varden and Red salmon.  After an exciting water take-off and 40 minute flight across the bay and over the glaciers and seeing a black bear from the air, they landed on a small lagoon on the East side of the Kenai Peninsula in the Kenia Fiords National Park. 

Taxi down, prepare for takeoff

Both Colton and Ethan with fish on!

They knew they were going to be into some good fishing as they could see the fish jumping on the landing approach.  It seemed like the fish were going crazy!  Fish were schooling everywere in the lagoon and jumping clear out of the water as they were queing up in the salt water to begin their migration up the rivers to spawn.

After landing and getting the plane secured, they went right into the fishing, with Colton (on his first cast) catching the largest Dolly Varden we'd seen so far.  This was the first of MANY fish they caught! 

Bear checking out the fishing activity

After fishing only about 15 minutes or so, they had their 1st and only visitor.  From across the lagoon they could see a black head swimming towards them.  As it approached their side of the lagoon, they determined it was a curious black bear coming to check things out.  It climbed up on shore about 150 yards away from them, watched them fish for a few minutes, then went on it's way.  What a deal;  bear viewing and fishing for the price of one!

They continued catching lots of fish and soon got to experience the number and persistence of the mosquitos & gnats we'd heard so much about and the boys soon donned their head-nets!  This did NOT keep them from fishing and having WAY too much fun though!


Nice catch boys!



Now this is fishing!



Ethan LOVED talking into the microphone.
The pilot finally had to turn Ethan's mic
off so he and Pete could talk flying without
input from Ethan.We're wondering if there is a way WE can
turn off Ethan?

After about 3 hours of catching fish, the pilot suggested they might want to start packing-up the fish and head for home as the weather was starting to come in.  By the time they got loaded and on the plane, the weather was in!  After scoping out the weather further in the fiord and determining it wasn't safe to fly, the pilot taxied the plane through the water and around the end of the lagoon to a nearby cabin.  There, they beached & tied-off the plane again, the pilot got out the "survival gear" and they headed to the cabin to wait it out.  The boys were all ready to camp & fish for a couple days.  Fortunately though, after an hour and a half the weather started to clear and they were able to take-off and the pilot was able to find a safe route (albeit the "long way" - darn :-) back to Homer.



What a day!!  By far the best fishing & most excitement we've had so far!
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We're looking forward to more family ( Uncle Mark, Aunt Carolyn, and Aunt Kate) arriving later this week and showing them all that Homer has to desire!