Cheer

Cheer

by Robert Service

It's a mighty good world, so it is, dear lass,
 When even the worst is said.
There's a smile and a tear, a sigh and a cheer,
 But better be living than dead;
A joy and a pain, a loss and a gain;
 There's honey and may be some gall:
Yet still I declare, foul weather or fair,
 It's a mighty good world after all.

We're hoping all of you are feeling that your worlds are 'mighty good' afterall. This is how we are feeling - even more so after returning from Kodiak Island.  Kodiak Island is the second largest island in the USA. We left for the island on Tuesday evening aboard the Alaska Marine Ferry Vessel  the "Tustamina",  known to crew and locals as the Tusty. She's an old girl and has made many a passage accross the Shelikof Straight into Kodiak. With near gale force winds that evening and big seas, the captain decided to take a different route than usual - which put us about 3 hours behind schedule - but we think it was likely worth it.  We had a 4 bed berth so were sleeping for most of the ride - but she was pretty tipsy.  Anna managed to keep things down by sucking on ginger and taking Dramamine before bed. Colton wasn't so lucky. He did great until we allowed him to play his DS in the morning - the seas were getting big again and he didn't notice until suddenly he was running for our berth.  Luckily he made it to the bathroom in time to loose his breakfast in the toilet;  much better than all over the cabin. Our little boy is growing up!

Once we finally docked in Kodiak, we loaded up our bikes with 4 pannier bags, a large backpack that Anna wore, a kids backpack for Colton, a camera backpack for Ethan and a large duffle with fishing gear carried by Tim and we rode up to our B & B.  We made it up the hill land were thrilled to find an immaculately clean apartment, with a stocked fridge of breakfast goodies, and a fantastic view of both the harbor and the bay. Ethan quickly became friends with the owners son Gabriel (9 years old) which kept him busy. We would recommend the Ocean Bay B & B to anyone travelling to Kodiak.  Check them out at:
http://oceanbaykodiak.com/

Our first stop was a little sport shopping.  Anna finally was able to give Tim his birthday present by getting him a new fly rod - he needed a bigger one for the big salmon he is sure to catch this trip.  His main requirement was that it was made in the USA.  Do any of you have any idea how hard this is to find, without having to give up your "first born?" Tim was prepared to, but Anna wasn't!  Of course - we have Orvis down the road in Vermont, but we wanted a new rod without having to take out a second mortage. Well - he got exactly what he was looking for.  The boys loved this type of shopping and they stocked up on fly tying materials and books, flies, and Ethan finally purchased a knife (again - requirement was to made in the USA - or at least not in China)- and he found a beauty, known now as his Kodiak knife!

Are you sick of seeing Anna's eagle pictures yet???

Ethan lookin' like a pro on the river!

Colton, bound & determined to catch a salmon on his flyrod!

So, loaded up with new equipment  it was time to hit the river!  We did a lot of fishing along Kodiak Island, including the Bruskin River and Briskin Lake, the American River and Lake Gertrude - but the Bruskin was the favorite.  It had an area to bank fish where all four of us could spread out, but still see each other along the shore line. The eagles were hanging out with us and we were just across from the Kodiak Airport so we had numerous small planes and helicopters flying over to help break up some of the monotony of fishing ( this is Anna writing - not Tim - he would NEVER think fishing is monotonous). Our time on the river payed off with Tim catching a Dolly Varden and the boys both bringing in a Steelhead (sea-run Rainbow Trout). It was a "team effort", with Tim spotting and setting the hook, and then the boys playing the fish to shore.
Anna was "team photographer."


 They were HUGE!!  I'm not sure Colton & Ethan realize this may be the biggest freshwater fish they ever catch. The steel head were catch & release only on the Bruskin.  No problem since we didn't bring a cooler with us and since the fun was in catching them! 

Our 1st respectable river-fish in Alaska!

Colton is still hoping to catch a King Salmon - but no luck yet.
It was interesting that we were apporached by both a State Ttrooper and a State Park Ranger while fishing the rivers.  They were both extremely friendly and supportive of our family fishing - and did check to ensure we had Alaska fishing liscences, which of course we do.  It is nice to see that Alaska is fullfiilling it's mission of responsible and sustainable fishing for the future.

We planned this trip to Kodiak for this past week knowing that it was the annual "Crab Festival." Historically this festival celebrates the bounty of the crab catch.  However, crabbing in Kodiak was suspended in the late 1980's due to over-fishing and now the crabbing occurs in the Bearing Sea.  Yet, the "Crab Fest" lives on!  Think of it as a very small Tunbridge Fair, with a couple of food booths selling crab food items, and no agricultural exhibits.  Unfortunately, we weren't able to stay for the Coast Guard's Search & Rescue demonstration or the "Survival Suit" swim race in the harbor.  Those events surely add to the experience!

"Fresh" (not) King Crab Legs - Did you know ALL King crab is frozen at sea.  We didn't!

Fresh or not, they tasted great!



Ethan had a great time on the carnival rides!

Colton & Ethan on the hang glider ride

Kodiak is home to the second largest commerical fishing fleet in the United States and has the largest U.S. Coast Gaurd base.  We had a great time walking the docks and admiring the fishing vessels - many of which apparently are highlighted on "The Deadliest Catch".

We also enjoyed listening to the harbor seals bark as they were sunning themselves on the rocks in the harbor.


Stellar Sea Lions basking in the (rare) sun

We did take a break from fishing and drove across the bridge to Near Island ,which, as you guessed it, is really near to Kodiak. It has an amazing Alaska Fisheries Research Center with an intertidal pool "touch tank" and a number of fish and wildlife exhibits.

Once we returned our rental car Friday, we were back to usung just our bikes to get around.  Lucky for us the sky was blue and the weather perfect for a nice 5 mile (one way) bike ride out to Fort Abercrombie.  This is a wonderful State Park that has a military history. The boys loved exploring all the old WWII bunkers and cannons.

Kodiak Island is about 100 miles long and its two ends couldn't be more different.  At the south end, where Alitak Bay is, the windswept hills are mostly bare of the familiar tall spruces, but are covered instead by small trees, bushes and grassland.  We looked closely over this terrain hoping to see a Kodiak Bear (largest bear species in the world), but we did not.

Just outside the town of Kodiak, at the north end, the forests grow tall and thick, with dangling mosses and hanging fogs; this being the northwesternmost extent of the temperate rain forest. 


Old Growth Spruce Trees Covered with Moss on their Lower 20 to 30 feet

We enjoyed hiking through these moss covered forests and especially liked it when we came to Lake Gertrude; a beautiful, serene, stocked, freshwater lake. The amazing thing about this lake is that just above a driftwood boundry lies the sea waters of Monashka Bay, only about 200 feet from the lake at high tide. Never before have we seen a freshwater lake and sea water so close together.  It was breathtaking.

Lake Gertrude, separated from the ocean by less than 200 feet

On Saturday monirng we just had time for a bit more sight-seeing. We explored the oldest Russian Orthodox church in the USA , first established in 1796.  We were lucky to be there early and run into a Priest who was happy to give us a private tour and answer all our questions.

 

We also spent some time in the Baranov museum, learning more about the Aluitig way of life and the Russian influences on Kodiak. 

Finally it was time again to gather all of our belongings and trek down the road like a gypsy family to catch the 12:30 ferry home. This time we rode in style! We were aboard the M/V Kennecott- one of the larger and newer ships and the State of Alaska's fleet of ferries. It is 382 feet long, has a beam (width) of 85', can carry 500 passengers and 80 vehicles, and has a cafeteria, arcade, gift shop, and free movie theatre.  It was commissioned back in 1998 for $80 million dollars using 80% Federal funds , "oil spill" revenue, and about 8% State funding.  For your $80,000,000, you get the "active fin stabilization" package, which in 1998 was the latest technology in "roll stabilization systems."   Anna was very glad that the State was able to afford this luxury item!  Though it was a beautiful day and a smooth ride all the way back to Homer, we're sure this added feature was well worth the money. 

After about 9 1/2 hrs at sea, we arrived back at the Homer ferry dock about 10:00PM  and got to witness first hand what we had heard about since got here - the throngs of people on the Homer Spit. With Memorial Day weekend just getting into full swing and still another hour or more before dark, the Spit was "jumping" and not an open camping spot to be seen.  Guess this is what we have to look forward to when the summer crowds arrive in June.  So much for the quiet, sleepy town of Homer.  I think we're about to hear how they came up with the town motto- 'A quaint little drinking town with a fishing problem.'  It'll be interesting to see how the the "Homeroids" accomodate the summer influx.  Stay tuned....