Blood in the Mud and Bear Scat

Wow ,  what a week we've had!

On Monday, we volunteered for the afternoon at the Wynn Nature Center and Tim, Anna, Colton & Ethan spent 5+ hours moving firewood, hauling a truck load of lumber 300 yards from the parking lot and re-stacking it at the Center's cabin, and then demolishing the old boardwalk in preparation for it's replacement. The Center is replacing it's 800 feet of boardwalk (making the facility handicapped accessible) over the course of the summer using mostly volunteer help.

On Tuesday, we headed out on a two night camping trip up to the central Kenai Peninsula area to check out the area around Skilak lake. Our goals were to do some fishing, camping and hiking. We started off the trip with a stop at the Anchor River. This is a famous salmon river in Anchor Point, about 20 minutes from Homer. We had heard that it can be combat fishing during the King Salmon runs as it is only open to fishing on Sundays Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays  for four weeks in May & June, until it opens for the season on August 1st.

We arrived around 0830 and were lucky enough to find a spot in the "Slidehole" where all four of us could fish from the shore. I knew it was going to be a good spot as I saw 2 huge blood spots in the mud of the riverbank, a good sign that some fish were taken from this area very recently.  We had not been fishing 20 minutes when Colton got his first bite. Now, the King Salmon on the Anchor are nothing like the Kings in the lagoon where we normally fish- these fish put up a fight!! After fighting it for almost 10 minutes it took off down stream like a bullet at which point Colton had to hand the rod over to Tim, as the fish almost bumped into a fishman downstream.  The fish finally won the battle and broke the fishing line - Darn- but man, was that fun and exciting! Colton wasn't too upset about the loss and once his arms recovered he tossed out another line. Then, moments later Ethan got a bite! He played that fish very well - right up to the point where he had it 1-2 feet from shore. Then Tim's Curse of the King Salmon set in; he made the mistake of grabbing Ethan's line while reaching for the fish, which resulted in the fish breaking the line and getting away. Tim had left our net at the lagoon a few days earlier so we were bringing them in Alaskan style, with no net. Needless to say Ethan was a bit upset. It's funny how history repeats itself. Tim was reminiscing about the time he had a big Bluefish on his line while fishing from a boat in Maine when he was a kid, and how after reeling the fish to the side of the boat, his Dad clubbed it - right off the line and back into the ocean.  Maybe it's a Schaal right of passage to have your dad contribute to you loosing a big fish?  Tim, feeling terrible, encouraged Ethan to keep on fishing and promised to never let that happen again.

A few minutes later Colton had another bite - but lost it after just a minute. Then another bite - and this one stuck! He had to fight that fish up and down the river. I had never seen anything like it.

No - he is not snagged - he's hanging on to a KING!!

 After 19 minutes we finally got it on shore, all 19 pounds of it. As Colton got the fish to shore, Tim jumped in the water, bear hugged it and tossed it into the bushes. He was NOT about to let another one get away! Yes!!! We landed a King Salmon on the Anchor River!! Amazing!!

That's right coach Porter- the Minicanes sweatshirt is now deemed the "lucky sweatshirt"

Getting your boat in and out of the ocean in Anchor Point

We took the fish to a fish cleaning station (table with water) which was on the ocean. We thought you might enjoy seeing how fishing boats get launched in a small Alaskan town with no dock or boat launching ramp.  Notice all the eagles on the beach, they are snacking on Colton's fish carcass .

From here we travelled north and stopped to fish at Johnson Lake. It was a beautiful campground and lake and Tim caught a couple of small rainbows. We then worked out way over to the Kasilof river and tried our luck - but had none - not even a bite. We then went into Soldotna where we purchased a new fishing net and a few new flies as we had seen a Red (Sockeye) Salmon, get caught at the Kasilof.  The Red Salmon run is starting!

We finally made it to our destination which was the Lower Skilak Lake campground. This is a State run campground that had no fee.  Go figure - free camping on a picturesque lake in the middle of nowhere, Alaska.  It was amazing; although I (Anna) was a bit freaked out about the bear potential as it was very remote and we were 1 of only 2 camping parties. Alas, no bear sightings, but Tim did awaken when a moose and her calf almost tripped on the tent wires as then meandered through our campsite at 3 AM.  I guess I should have been more concerned with moose than bears.


A perfect spot!

Our great campsite



The next day we did a great hike called  Hideout. It was only a few miles but it had significant elevation which provided us with a beautiful view of the Skilak Lake area, the Kenai River and it's valley and the Kenai Mountains. It was lovely with the lupine in bloom and yellow Indian Paintbrush, which we had never seen before. We did see 2 different piles of fresh bear scat - but again, no bear sitings- whew!

The top of Hideout hike

After our hike we found a spot to fish on the Kenai River, another very famous salmon river. It is not uncommon for king salmon that get taken out of the Kenai to be in the 50-60 pound range. We found an amazing spot on a gravel bar and enjoyed the rushing river for a few hours - but no catches. We were amazed by the number of fish carcasses on the river bank. These are the carcasses of all the salmon from the previous year who come up stream to spawn and then die and wash up on shore. There were tonnes of them!

Fish carcass on the Kenai river bank

  After this it was back to the campsite for one more night. In the morning we packed up and headed back home, but not without a stop first at the Kasilof again.  No luck, but good fun. Ethan was using herring for bait and he enjoyed teasing (or feeding) the seagulls with it.

Since Anna had a King  Salmon stamp that was good until Saturday morning, we decided to stop at the lagoon after having dinner on the Homer Spit. We were only there for an hour - but Colton got ANOTHER King Salmon. This brings our total up to 4 Kings, which means we have enough to jusitfy sending some home!

Carleton, Susie, Justin, Karol, Ethan, Tim, Colton and Anna at the trail head

Saturday was an EPIC Alaska day. It was National Trails Day and we signed up to go across the bay to Katchemak Bay State Park and do some volunteer trail maintenance. It ususally costs $70-$80 per person to get accross the bay, but for this event it was only $20.00 dollars per person which we thought was a great deal. We met at 0730 in the morning on the Homer Spit. It was cold, windy and raining. Our group was supposed to have 17 people in it, but only 7 of us showed up. The bad weather probably was responsible. Well, we had the best day!! After a 30 minute water taxi across the bay we arrived at the trailhead, with the sun shining. We had a guide, Justin, who is a Forestry student at the University of Illinois, working for Alaska State Parks for the summer. Turns out the trail we were doing was actually already picked up, so we didn't have any work to do and just had a guided hike! We hiked up to a tram that crossed the Grewingk River.

Ethan taking a little break

Of course the boys had to try it out, so while I tried to calm my palpating heart, the boys went across a glacier fed river in a tram. They LOVED it! I loved it when they returned and got off! We then made our way down to Grewingk Lake which had some huge icebergs in it. The photos say more than I can. It was utterly beautiful and something we will never forget. The boys had fun trying to break off some of the ice closer to shore. They were amazed at how dense and cold it was.



After the lake we made our way around to the Saddle Trail which would lead us out to Saddle Beach where we were being picked up. Along the way we came across a very friendly gentleman, Paul Lutus. We continue to be amazed by the intersting characters we meet in Alaska. Come to find out he sails a boat from Washington State to Alaska every year for about 6 months where he hikes and photographs bears. Another interesting thing about Paul is that he wrote one of Apple's first word processing programs, at which time he retired at age 35. He is now 66. You can check out his photos and stories at  http://arachnoid.com/.


Paul rowing out to his boat the 'Teacup" that he lives on 6 months a year.



Our water taxi

Along our hike we saw numerous piles of bear scat - some of it very fresh looking - but again, no bear sitings.  At 3:30 our water taxi came to pick us up and bring us back to Homer.

After our 7+ miles of hiking, we enjoyed a potluck dinner at the Wynn Nature Center where we got the chance to socialize more with many of the folks we met & worked with on Monday and meet many more people.  The evening wrapped up with a trio playing guitar a singing some bluegrass tunes they've written.  Our favorite was the one about the ptarmigan (arctic cousin to the partridge) that got run over in the road by a pick-up truck.  Only in Alaska.....

This week we're  heading further north again, all the way to Denali and Fairbanks. We're told we're sure to see a bear on the trip. We'll let you know.

Cheers! 

Teamwork!

TACE





The World's All Right

 by
Robert W. Service

The World's All Right

Be honest, kindly, simple, true;
Seek good in all, scorn but pretence;
Whatever sorrow come to you,
Believe in Life's Beneficence!
The World's all right; serene I sit,
And cease to puzzle over it.
There's much that's mighty strange, no doubt;
But Nature knows what she's about;
And in a million years or so
We'll know more than to-day we know.
Old Evolution's under way --
What ho! the World's all right, I say.

Yes, yes - this mighty world of ours is most definitely all right.  It seems that in Alaska, nature's rhythms and cycles are more pronounced than ever. Or, perhaps it is just that we are lucky enough to take the time to notice them. The coming and going of the tides, and the return of Salmon to their birthplace are fine examples of nature at its best - and we are enjoying it all.

The King Salmon are finally running!! We have been fishing for 5 weeks now with not one Salmon on our line, until this week. First Ethan on Tuesday, and then Colton today (Sunday) have both pulled in a King Salmon. 15 pounds of solid muscle pulling the line around the lagoon fighting against the rod - but ultimately loosing the battle to two very persistent and happy boys!  We have read and been told that to catch and land a King Salmon takes approximately 10-12 hours of fishing with a guide or 20 hours on average without a guide; we are pretty close to the statistics. People come to Alaska, hire a guide, fish for days and can still go home without a King. We however, have experienced 2 catches...so far!


Colton and his 1st King Salmon



Colton getting a fillet lesson. He used some of his gift money and purchased a really nice fillet knife - hand made in Homer with a caribou antler handle.  Now he needs to learn how to use and respect it - it's very sharp!



Working the fillet off the carcass.



Ethan and his first King! Way to go E!!

We wanted to try fishing on the Kasilof River, so we packed up the van and went up the road about 60 miles for a fish/camping excursion. The trick is to find a campground right on the river so you can be out there anytime after midnight on the days when the river opens for Kings. As usual when we camp, it rained. Anna & Ethan slept on the bed in the "Alaska van" and Tim & Colton slept in the tent so they could get up at 5:00AM and go fishing without disturbing the two "less dedicated fisherpeolpe" of the family. Even though we didn't catch a fish, while eating a soggy muffin for breakfast by a smoldering fire, Colton pronounced that "this is the best camping trip ever!"

Tim did get a chance to go with a guide this week to try and learn a few tricks of salmon fishing on Alaska's rivers. He did learn a lot - but was not able to land a fish; he should have brought the boys for that! He had 4 different ones on his hook - but as Alaskans don't use nets to land their fish - all 4 got away. Alaskans have a pretty well established way of doing things.  Drifting clusters of salmon eggs in a deep "hole" in the river either with a bobber (or with a sinker if the hole is really deep) seems to be the most popular and most productive way to fish.  These holes are coveted spots (they are shown on all of the recreation maps), which you need to get to well before dayight (about 2:00AM; Tim saw some guys in sleeping bags along the river to save the spot they wanted) on the day the river is open (usually only 3 to 4 days per week), and if needed, elbow your way into a spot.  If you've got 2-3 feet on your left or right to the next fisherman, you're doing well and have about twice as much room as you will have when the river gets busy. 

When someone thinks they have a fish, they set the hook by yanking the rod tip straight up over their heads.  If there's no fish on the end, the bare hook & bobber rocket out of the water like they've been shot from a cannon, and woe be it upon you if you're in the line of fire. It is "combat fishing" at its best.  "Combat fishing" is a real term used by Alaskans for when the salmon runs are going strong and EVERYONE is on the river trying to fill their freezers. With the boys we try and avoid these bottlenecks, both to protect the boys from getting a hook in the head and to protect the other fishermen and women from them, especially as they love to fly fish when we are at the river. Though we only saw the "Hook Removal" billboard sign at the medical clinic in Kenai, we've been told there is a manequin in the lobby that is covered with all of hooks they've removed from people.

We had a great time camping and fishing - but came home without any more Salmon. We're going to try our luck again this week back on the Anchor and Ninilchik rivers.

MMMMM - cooking Ethan's Salmon on the soapstone.

We have really enjoyed eating our fresh salmon.  Ruby and Tim have turned us on to cooking on soapstone. We start a fire in the firepit and put the soapstone on top of the grate.  Once the soapstone is hot, scrape & wire briush it, then give it a light coat of olive oil and it is ready to cook on.  It stays hot for hours so both families can cook without having to keep the fire going. The Salmon has been delicious, and our grocery bill has been minimal! Even here in Alaska, King salmon costs $16/pound in fish markets.  We are now researching smoking some salmon to then freeze and send back to Vermont, but first we will need to catch a few more big ones.

We have also done some hiking this past week. Hiking around the Homer area is not at all like hiking in Vermont or NH.  It is mostly more beachwalking than traditional hiking, but we enjoy it all the same. Diamond Gulch and Beach was fun. We started up on the bluff and hiked down to the beach  (500 ft. elevation drop) where we found a cool driftwood shelter and firepit. We roasted hotdogs for lunch and did some tidepooling.

Cooking hot dogs on the beach






Ethan & Colton in the drift wood shelter on Diamond Beach

 

Geocaching has been another hiking activity that we have been enjoying. Ethan received a Geomate GPS for his birthday (Thank-you Mimi and Papa) and we have been putting it to good use. The Geomate works by simply turning it on (anywhere in the world) and it leads you to the closest cache, which is updated via the web; the closest geocache could be 1/2 mile, or 500 miles.  We use it on our hikes and walks around town.  Each cache is supposed to be in a water-tight box where you record your name and date in a log book, as well as take and leave a little 'treasure'.  We were very happy to find one at Diamond beach. Ethan took a Euro penny and left an unopened package of "Rosies Vermont Beef Jerky";  leftovers from deer season in Tim's hunting pack. You can check out geocaching at http://www.geocaching.com/



The boys and the cache!  If you
find this one, DON'T eat the jerky!



View of the Homer spit on our way down from Crossman Ridge

We also walked up Crossman Ridge, which is only about a 10 minute drive from our place. Here you hike up and then across the ridge. We ran into a fella grooming the trail (with a skid-steer Bobcat). Seems that 4-wheeling (riding "quads", for you Canadians) is much more popular than hiking here on the southern end of the Kenai Peninsula. The groomer was extremely friendly and did warn us about the few moose who were calving up on that trail. We didn't run in to any of them, but we were on the lookout.



A kite boarder catching some air

Under the heading  "Things you don't expect to see in Alaska" , the Alaska Kitefest was held in Homer last weekend. It was a beautiful day and really fun to go out and watch all the boarders.


Alaska Kitefest 2011

We have had an exciting moose week. One day we saw a big mama in our backyard and you could actually see her calf moving/kicking inside her belly - it was amazing.  Apparently she calved while we were away camping and paraded the babe down the driveway, but we missed it. Hopefully they will be back.






This smaller mama (above) has also been hanging out and Ruby thinks she is also going to give birth any day now. On Saturday the boys met the moose in the woods as they were collecting pine cones for Ruby.  The moose then came into the back yard/swamp area and laid down for 2-3 hours. Once the 4- wheeler (quad!)started to work, she tired of the noise and moved on.  We're hoping she'll also be back with her babe.

Resting right out our backdoor. This photo is taken from our deck.

The obligatory eagle photo- Bald Eagle on the Spit

Our days in Alaska are getting longer and longer and it hardly gets dark, more like twilight, even at 3 AM.  We are enjoying the ebbs and flows of nature, and especially the return of the Salmon. Yes indeed - the World's Alright.

Cheer

Cheer

by Robert Service

It's a mighty good world, so it is, dear lass,
 When even the worst is said.
There's a smile and a tear, a sigh and a cheer,
 But better be living than dead;
A joy and a pain, a loss and a gain;
 There's honey and may be some gall:
Yet still I declare, foul weather or fair,
 It's a mighty good world after all.

We're hoping all of you are feeling that your worlds are 'mighty good' afterall. This is how we are feeling - even more so after returning from Kodiak Island.  Kodiak Island is the second largest island in the USA. We left for the island on Tuesday evening aboard the Alaska Marine Ferry Vessel  the "Tustamina",  known to crew and locals as the Tusty. She's an old girl and has made many a passage accross the Shelikof Straight into Kodiak. With near gale force winds that evening and big seas, the captain decided to take a different route than usual - which put us about 3 hours behind schedule - but we think it was likely worth it.  We had a 4 bed berth so were sleeping for most of the ride - but she was pretty tipsy.  Anna managed to keep things down by sucking on ginger and taking Dramamine before bed. Colton wasn't so lucky. He did great until we allowed him to play his DS in the morning - the seas were getting big again and he didn't notice until suddenly he was running for our berth.  Luckily he made it to the bathroom in time to loose his breakfast in the toilet;  much better than all over the cabin. Our little boy is growing up!

Once we finally docked in Kodiak, we loaded up our bikes with 4 pannier bags, a large backpack that Anna wore, a kids backpack for Colton, a camera backpack for Ethan and a large duffle with fishing gear carried by Tim and we rode up to our B & B.  We made it up the hill land were thrilled to find an immaculately clean apartment, with a stocked fridge of breakfast goodies, and a fantastic view of both the harbor and the bay. Ethan quickly became friends with the owners son Gabriel (9 years old) which kept him busy. We would recommend the Ocean Bay B & B to anyone travelling to Kodiak.  Check them out at:
http://oceanbaykodiak.com/

Our first stop was a little sport shopping.  Anna finally was able to give Tim his birthday present by getting him a new fly rod - he needed a bigger one for the big salmon he is sure to catch this trip.  His main requirement was that it was made in the USA.  Do any of you have any idea how hard this is to find, without having to give up your "first born?" Tim was prepared to, but Anna wasn't!  Of course - we have Orvis down the road in Vermont, but we wanted a new rod without having to take out a second mortage. Well - he got exactly what he was looking for.  The boys loved this type of shopping and they stocked up on fly tying materials and books, flies, and Ethan finally purchased a knife (again - requirement was to made in the USA - or at least not in China)- and he found a beauty, known now as his Kodiak knife!

Are you sick of seeing Anna's eagle pictures yet???

Ethan lookin' like a pro on the river!

Colton, bound & determined to catch a salmon on his flyrod!

So, loaded up with new equipment  it was time to hit the river!  We did a lot of fishing along Kodiak Island, including the Bruskin River and Briskin Lake, the American River and Lake Gertrude - but the Bruskin was the favorite.  It had an area to bank fish where all four of us could spread out, but still see each other along the shore line. The eagles were hanging out with us and we were just across from the Kodiak Airport so we had numerous small planes and helicopters flying over to help break up some of the monotony of fishing ( this is Anna writing - not Tim - he would NEVER think fishing is monotonous). Our time on the river payed off with Tim catching a Dolly Varden and the boys both bringing in a Steelhead (sea-run Rainbow Trout). It was a "team effort", with Tim spotting and setting the hook, and then the boys playing the fish to shore.
Anna was "team photographer."


 They were HUGE!!  I'm not sure Colton & Ethan realize this may be the biggest freshwater fish they ever catch. The steel head were catch & release only on the Bruskin.  No problem since we didn't bring a cooler with us and since the fun was in catching them! 

Our 1st respectable river-fish in Alaska!

Colton is still hoping to catch a King Salmon - but no luck yet.
It was interesting that we were apporached by both a State Ttrooper and a State Park Ranger while fishing the rivers.  They were both extremely friendly and supportive of our family fishing - and did check to ensure we had Alaska fishing liscences, which of course we do.  It is nice to see that Alaska is fullfiilling it's mission of responsible and sustainable fishing for the future.

We planned this trip to Kodiak for this past week knowing that it was the annual "Crab Festival." Historically this festival celebrates the bounty of the crab catch.  However, crabbing in Kodiak was suspended in the late 1980's due to over-fishing and now the crabbing occurs in the Bearing Sea.  Yet, the "Crab Fest" lives on!  Think of it as a very small Tunbridge Fair, with a couple of food booths selling crab food items, and no agricultural exhibits.  Unfortunately, we weren't able to stay for the Coast Guard's Search & Rescue demonstration or the "Survival Suit" swim race in the harbor.  Those events surely add to the experience!

"Fresh" (not) King Crab Legs - Did you know ALL King crab is frozen at sea.  We didn't!

Fresh or not, they tasted great!



Ethan had a great time on the carnival rides!

Colton & Ethan on the hang glider ride

Kodiak is home to the second largest commerical fishing fleet in the United States and has the largest U.S. Coast Gaurd base.  We had a great time walking the docks and admiring the fishing vessels - many of which apparently are highlighted on "The Deadliest Catch".

We also enjoyed listening to the harbor seals bark as they were sunning themselves on the rocks in the harbor.


Stellar Sea Lions basking in the (rare) sun

We did take a break from fishing and drove across the bridge to Near Island ,which, as you guessed it, is really near to Kodiak. It has an amazing Alaska Fisheries Research Center with an intertidal pool "touch tank" and a number of fish and wildlife exhibits.

Once we returned our rental car Friday, we were back to usung just our bikes to get around.  Lucky for us the sky was blue and the weather perfect for a nice 5 mile (one way) bike ride out to Fort Abercrombie.  This is a wonderful State Park that has a military history. The boys loved exploring all the old WWII bunkers and cannons.

Kodiak Island is about 100 miles long and its two ends couldn't be more different.  At the south end, where Alitak Bay is, the windswept hills are mostly bare of the familiar tall spruces, but are covered instead by small trees, bushes and grassland.  We looked closely over this terrain hoping to see a Kodiak Bear (largest bear species in the world), but we did not.

Just outside the town of Kodiak, at the north end, the forests grow tall and thick, with dangling mosses and hanging fogs; this being the northwesternmost extent of the temperate rain forest. 


Old Growth Spruce Trees Covered with Moss on their Lower 20 to 30 feet

We enjoyed hiking through these moss covered forests and especially liked it when we came to Lake Gertrude; a beautiful, serene, stocked, freshwater lake. The amazing thing about this lake is that just above a driftwood boundry lies the sea waters of Monashka Bay, only about 200 feet from the lake at high tide. Never before have we seen a freshwater lake and sea water so close together.  It was breathtaking.

Lake Gertrude, separated from the ocean by less than 200 feet

On Saturday monirng we just had time for a bit more sight-seeing. We explored the oldest Russian Orthodox church in the USA , first established in 1796.  We were lucky to be there early and run into a Priest who was happy to give us a private tour and answer all our questions.

 

We also spent some time in the Baranov museum, learning more about the Aluitig way of life and the Russian influences on Kodiak. 

Finally it was time again to gather all of our belongings and trek down the road like a gypsy family to catch the 12:30 ferry home. This time we rode in style! We were aboard the M/V Kennecott- one of the larger and newer ships and the State of Alaska's fleet of ferries. It is 382 feet long, has a beam (width) of 85', can carry 500 passengers and 80 vehicles, and has a cafeteria, arcade, gift shop, and free movie theatre.  It was commissioned back in 1998 for $80 million dollars using 80% Federal funds , "oil spill" revenue, and about 8% State funding.  For your $80,000,000, you get the "active fin stabilization" package, which in 1998 was the latest technology in "roll stabilization systems."   Anna was very glad that the State was able to afford this luxury item!  Though it was a beautiful day and a smooth ride all the way back to Homer, we're sure this added feature was well worth the money. 

After about 9 1/2 hrs at sea, we arrived back at the Homer ferry dock about 10:00PM  and got to witness first hand what we had heard about since got here - the throngs of people on the Homer Spit. With Memorial Day weekend just getting into full swing and still another hour or more before dark, the Spit was "jumping" and not an open camping spot to be seen.  Guess this is what we have to look forward to when the summer crowds arrive in June.  So much for the quiet, sleepy town of Homer.  I think we're about to hear how they came up with the town motto- 'A quaint little drinking town with a fishing problem.'  It'll be interesting to see how the the "Homeroids" accomodate the summer influx.  Stay tuned....